When red light on the road, i have to brake my Pontiac.But it always shivers for about 30 seconds when red light, what seems that my Pontiac will stall.

I spoke to TASC yesterday and told the same thing. He advised me to change the brake pads during my next service for which I have to wait for another 4 months or 4000 KM. In the mean time, I am planning to visit Hyderabad by road.

Hence, I am planning to get this replaced this weekend so that I can have a safe journey to Hyderabad.

Thank you so much for all the info that was provided.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 through 12

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Fig. 1: Remove the dust cap covering the hub and bearing

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Fig. 2: Remove the cotter pin (discard) and nut retainer, then the hub retaining nut and washer

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Fig. 3: Using a pair of pliers, remove the automatic adjuster lever spring

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Fig. 4: Rotate the adjuster screw enough to move the shoes away from the wheel cylinder boots

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Fig. 5: Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever

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Fig. 6: Remove the both of the lower shoe-to-anchor plate springs

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Fig. 7: Remove the 2 hold-down springs from the brake shoes with a special spring removal tool

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Fig. 8: Remove the upper shoe-to-return spring, then the automatic adjuster and lever from the backing plate

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Fig. 9: Separate the shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism

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Fig. 10: The automatic adjuster lever is part of the one shoe

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Fig. 11: Lubricate the eight contact areas shown with a multi-purpose lubricant

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Fig. 12: Exploded view of the left rear shoe assembly

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels.

Raise the vehicle and support safely. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums.

Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and bearing assembly. Then remove the cotter pin and the nut lock from the spindle.

Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly retainer nut and washer. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly from the spindle.

Remove the automatic adjuster spring from the adjuster lever.

Rotate the automatic adjuster star wheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.

Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever. Disconnect parking brake cable one side at a time.

Remove the both lower brake shoe-to-anchor springs.

Remove the 2 brake shoe hold-down springs from the brake shoes.

Remove the brake shoes, upper shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever from the backing plate as an assembly.

Separate the brake shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism.

Remove the brake shoe automatic adjuster lever from the leading brake shoe.

To install:

Thoroughly clean and dry the backing plate. To prepare the backing plate, lubricate the bosses, anchor pin and parking brake actuating lever pivot surface lightly with lithium based grease.

Remove, clean and dry all parts still on the old shoes. Lubricate the star wheel shaft threads with anti-seize lubricant.

Assemble both brake shoes, the top shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever before mounting on vehicle. Make sure the ends of the automatic adjusters are positioned above the extruded pins in the webbing of the brake shoes prior to installation.

Install the brake shoe assembly onto the brake support plate and install the hold-down springs.

Install the lower anchor springs and reconnect the parking brake cable to the park brake lever of the trailing brake shoe.

Rotate the serrated adjuster nut to remove the free-play from the adjuster assembly. Install the automatic adjuster lever spring on the lead brake shoe assembly and the automatic adjuster lever.

Install the rear hub and bearing assembly. Install the washers and retainer nuts and tighten to 124 ft. lbs. (168 Nm).

Install the nut lock, new cotter pin and dust cover to the rear spindle.

Adjust brake shoes so not to interfere with brake drum installation. Install the rear brake drums.

After installing the brake drums, pump the brake pedal several times to partially adjust the brake shoes. To verify proper operation of the self-adjusting parking brake, be sure that both rear brakes are not dragging when the parking brake pedal is released.

Install the rear wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).

Road test the vehicle. The automatic adjusters will continue brake adjustment during the road test of the vehicle.

Hope you get your brakes fixed !!!!

Water in a Gas Tank"

Yes, it can, if the water gets into the engine. Too much water in your gas might prevent your engine from starting, and can cause internal rust that can eventually seize your engine (stop the engine parts from moving). When vehicles are not started for several months, temperature changes can cause condensation inside the fuel tank from the humid air inside the tank. The longer a vehicle sits idle, the more water you may have in the fuel tank. In very cold weather, a few droplets of water sitting in a fuel line could turn to ice and prevent fuel from getting to your engine until the weather gets above freezing.

If you think there is a lot of water in your fuel tank, the best solution is to NOT turn over or start your engine. Remove and drain your fuel tank, and put new fuel in it before attempting to start the vehicle.

If you suspect that there is only a small amount of water in your fuel tank, a can or two of "gas dryer" in your tank should solve the problem. This is sold under various brand names, usually in 12 ounce cans, at most auto parts stores in Fall and Winter seasons when fuel tank condensation is most likely to occur, and is predominantly alcohol, which is soluble in both water and petroleum distillates (such as gasoline or diesel fuel).

As a practical solution on an ongoing basis, you might look for a gas station that adds ethanol to the gas. Some stations are now doing this year-round. Some just do it in cold-weather months.